Saturday, December 29, 2012

At Lake Atitlan

So we have been at Lake Atitlan now for the last few days.  We spent 2 days in San Pedro La Laguna which is a small village town.

There, I hiked the Volcano San Pedro... it was a hike!  They don´t tell you the difficulty level or anything, but it was long.  We hiked quickly with our local guide, until it was clear that we could not keep up.  It was steep the entire way, only up, sometimes so steep that you would have to lurch one leg then the next.  The volcano top sits at 3000 meters, just over 9500 feet above sea level.  I am not sure what the distance is from base to top, but it took 3 hours up, and 2 hours down.

The terrain begins with a narrow trail that winds through a coffee plantation and avocado trees.  People were already hard at work at 6am here.  The trail stays narrow and it winds up the extinct volcano.  The terrain becomes very thick and dense.  There is a man that catches up to us that has some work tools, like a hoe and machete, and he plows ahead.  I find out that he is maintaining the trial because it can become overgrown or fall out quickly.

At the top, the view is to the east, and it is beautiful.  You can see most of the lake and all the villages that scatter around.

See my other post about the dog, Perro Guapo de Volcan San Pedro, aka the handsome dog of San Pedro Volcano.


Now, Jesse and I are in Panajachel.  We took a boat taxi across the lake to here for 25Q each or 3US.  We have a nice little place that has a garden and hotel parrot names Chichijal ?? I do not know how to spell that.  It does not like men, but does like women.  Only women can feed it... and Jesse saw what happens when he tries!!!

Jesse leaves on the 1st to fly back, and we will be spending the 31st in Guatemala City, because his flight leaves first thing in the morning.


Wednesday, December 26, 2012

On to Lake Atitlan

We will be taking off at 8:30 in the morning on a shuttle bus for Lake Atitlan.  Our first destination will be San Pedro, a popular spot, so the shuttle costs 80Q each, or about $10 US for a 2 1/2 hour ride.

Once a the lake, we have heard it is similar to Flores and the area, that there are launchas, or small water taxis, that will take you to different cities along the lake.  It is cheaper and much faster to utilize these than another shuttle.

Excited for what comes!

Jesse and I just had a wonderful meal here in Antigua that was just sooo wonderful... Indian Food!  That's right, there is one Indian restaurant in Antigua (maybe all of Guatemala?) but it knocked our socks off.  It was so tasty that it would possibly be better than any Indian restaurant in Portland.  After 3 weeks now of beans, eggs, and tortillas, this was a big treat and we would highly recommend it again and again.


Monday, December 24, 2012

Feliz Navidad!

Happy Christmas Eve!

We are nestled into the town of Antigua, where we are surrounded by many volcanoes. This is a colonial town mostly built in the 1500's but most of which was destroyed in a huge earthquake in 1718.  There are many churches in the town with a lot of history, some are still active since the 1500's.

All of the streets are cobblestone, uneven, and small sidewalks to negotiate.  It is a very internatinal place today, in part because of being a huge tourist location, but also the residents here come from all over the world.  It is a lot colder than we were prepared for, with a low of 55 and high of 78.  I have been layered up in everything I have!

Yesterday I hiked the Pacaya Volcano.  It is an active volcano with the most recent erruption in 2010.  That year, the lava went 2 km high and 4 km wide, and the path is still paved.  One person died, and many houses were destroyed.  Now, the coffee plants are beginning to grow again, but I guess it took 2 years before anything would grow.  My guide led us as high up as we could go, we could not go to the very top because of the fumes and heat at this time, it just started spewing smoke again.  But, these pockets are all over the area and are so hot you can roast marshmallows (which we did) or start a fire with sticks (we did that too).  It was nice to watch the sun set from the so high up - 2300 meters.  The top of the volcan reaches 2500 meters.

We have enjoyed some good Guatemalan coffee here, and walking around has been quite nice.  Today we will walk up to the lookout point on the north side of town, and also go to a Christmas Eve service tonight.  Here, Christmas Eve is the biggest day for services and festivities, and then Christmas Day is very quiet.

Missing you all this Christmas!




Thursday, December 20, 2012

Day 2 in Lanquin... wow!

I will have to make this short because of the waiting time for the computer, but Lanquin!!!

It is in the middle of the jungle, and a small village that is close to Semuc Champey.  We are staying at the Zephyr Lodge Hostel.  Open windows and a kitchen and bar here, hammocks to swing in, and beautiful sites around.  My shower was an open window off a cliff that looked out over the jungle hills.  Ahhhh!  I will have to post pictures later after I can upload them.

I hiked and swam for 6 hours today at Semuc Champey, which is a limestone phenomenon!  There is a river that has cut through limestone and roars under the limestone, while there are 7 pools of water from a different source on top.  It is pristine, beautiful, and offers lots of diving off cliffs and bridges, swimming through pools, and ducking under water to find yourself in a cave with just enough room to fit your head.

Tomorrow morning we are headed out to Antigua where we will most likely stay through Christmas time.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Tuk Tuk

This is from inside my tuk tuk ride to Santa Elena on Saturday.  You can see just ahead and to the left there is another tuk tuk.  It costs 5qz, about 70 cents to get from anywhere in Flores or Santa Elena and around.

I bought delicious flour tortillas from the women at the market for 1qz, about 15 cents for 10 hot fresh made tortillas!  MMMM!  I shopped around the market, and it was hustling with people and animals.  It was very crowded, and at one point I got lost in this maze of low crouched stalls that was closed inside itself, it must have gone on for 3 blocks, and it was very stuffy and hot.  It was a fun experience, I bought avocados, a bag of cut fruit, and then a flashlight.

So I thought that we would need a flashflight on our journey at some point.  So I went into hardware store front.  A husband and wife were behind the counter, the women was wearing all pink with a pink apron and had her hands in a box of screwdrivers while the husband was fixing a stereo speaker off to the side.  They were lovely people.  They offered me the only flashlight in the store, a huge Magnum 10 pounder.  So, I said no, and then they said they would make a phone call. Remember, my Spanish is broken, although I am getting better by the minute here!  So about 10 minutes later after waiting in this hardware storefront a man shows up on a tuk tuk and has three flashlights to choose from.  I asked how much, and they were 50qz ... more than I was willing to pay, but by this time I felt bad that they had basically hand delivered me exactaly what I wanted, so I bought it.  The funny part is, that I forgot to take it to the Tikal sunrise when we really needed it in that pitch black jungle on the way up to the temple! (see post on tikal sunrise)

Animales! ARCAS!

Jesse and I took a launcha across the lake to the village of San Miguel.  There, we walked about 45 minutes through a dirt road to get to ARCAS, an animal rescue operation.
This is an amazing rescue operation.  They recieve about 400 animals a year that are rescued from illegal trafficking.  They only accep local, native animals, such as howler and spider monkeys, macaws, ocelets, whitetailed deer, and many other birds... coatimundis have also found homes here.

The white tailed deer are considered endangered down here because of a lot of poaching, so ARCAS has a breeding and rehabilitation program.

All of their animals are divided between those to be set back to the wild and those who can not be due to amputations, sickness, or other problems that would lead them to be quick prey.

Did you know that 70% of animals trafficked die during transportation?

I would like to work here.  The people are humble and doing God´s work.  One of the birds talked to Jesse, saying "hola, hola" and then it continued in Spanish and we figured out that it was talking about the man raking out their area.  The bird was saying "rake time, here it comes, time for the rake" It was funny.
 Jesse´s friend parrot... the talkative one.
The pack of coatimundi´s that snuck up behind me.  I heard a rustling and turned around and there were four of them staring right at me, then we all got scared, and once I kneeled down and waited there were about 12 that were eating in the area I was standing.  They are interesting mammals.

Tikal Sunrise 2012 ... must see!

This morning at 3 am we were in a bus heading North towards Tikal, the great Mayan ruins called "The Place of theVoices".  We were in a van with a guide and 12 other visitors.  Outside, the stars were greater than I have ever witnessed.  Orion stood out with picture perfect clairty.  There were faint clusters of stars that appeared to be from our Milky Way... it was incredible!

Once we got to Tikal, around 430am, it was pitch black.  You could imagine, it is in the middle of the jungle with no lights or city around.  Quiet with only the creaking of the branches beneath our feet and in the dark along the path.  The air was cool, but still humid and comfortable. We found a tarantula and our guide lured it out, and I think that was more awakening than a cup of coffee.

Tikal´s majesty shone bright when we arrived at Temple 4 and climbed this temple.  It is the highest temple at 64 meters, it is the temple of inscriptions because it has the most preserved detailed markings on it.  It is for a king for sure.  These temples are steep too, if you can imagine the climb of it, we were sitting on top of the stone and lime steps within feet of the highest point.  Above us was a carved face where the Mayans would burn fire and smoke would bellow out of its nose and ears.

This is what I thought was the sunrise, above.  The sky was black as black, and then it felt like the sky was rolling back and the bright blue and yellow hues began to peush forward.  It was beautiful, sitting in silence.
Then, the actual sun came out, after the whole jungle canopy already became alive with toucans, howler monkeys, other birds, macaws, it was amazing to hear the ripple of the jungle awakening!

Because it is the winter solstice, the sun aligns directly overhead of the temple shown here.

This picture on the right is a diagram of how the Mayans had purposefully designed the layout of their main plaza here.  The suns pathway aligns with the solstices and other specific times in a way that still occurs, like above.  It is amazing to be sitting there and imagine that between 700bc and 200ad these pyramids were built and people would watch the same sun rise from where I was sitting.


We spent another 4 hours in the park, looking at the other temples and learning a lot about the achievements made at this site... We met a lot of animals, some closer than others, but it was the most fun to watch the monkeys in the trees.  We saw a vivid toucan, and my favorite a baby crocodile about 3 feet long.  I got pretty close, and once his head tossed to one side really quickly... I backed up.

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Flores

We are in a little town called Flores, in Guatemala. There are people here from all over the world on occasion of the Mayan holiday. There is some uncertainty as to whether we will have access to the ruins on the 20th or 21st, because there are so many people here and locals have priority (makes sense). The entire park will be closed, it is rumored, for half a day on the 21st for shamanic rituals. So far, our best bet is to camp outside the gate on the 19th and wait to see what happens.



We are all having a grand time. Food is good, no sickness or crime, and everything we want we can get, eventually. The only moment I felt uncomfortable was at the Guatemalan / Belize border, but that quickly passed and we were on a bus out of there within an hour. We were swarmed by six 200-pound, 30 to 40 year old male mosquitos, each wearing cologn and a nice, very clean shirt. One was hovering just outside the gate, peeping through the window into customs where we were getting our visas. His english was perfect --apparently, we had learned everything wrong. Things were ten times more expensive, three times farther away, and if we did not take advantage of his unique and affordable services, we would all be lost. As soon as he began, five more came in, one by one. At one point I turned around and just stared at them. I simply could not belive my ears. We figured it out, though, and all is well.



Today we are going to take in the city here.

In Flores, Guatemala

So we arrived yesterday evening in Flores, Guatemala.  By the looks of it so far, it is an island that is like the Venice of Guatemala.

We arrived by all local buses leaving Caye Caulker at 830am and arriving at Flores at 430pm

Water taxi off Caye Caulker
Taxi to bus station in Belize City $2.50us / person
Local bus to border town, just past San Ignacio $4us / person
Border crossing fee out of Belize $19us
Border crossing fee into Guatemala $2.50us
Collectivo from the border to Flores 30quetzels which depending where you are in Guatemala the exchange is between 7.4qz to 7.9qz to the dollar so about $4us

All together the trip from Caye Caulker to Flores was $10.50us plus the 21.50 crossing fees... if you look on a map that is a long distance to go for that price.  Safe transportation and excellent service and local people.

The border crossing was a little sketchy because we were hounded from the time we were walking out of the belize building by about 8 men trying to tell us that we had to pay $20us for a ride to Flores and that we could not possibly walk the distance to the Collectivo and that it wont leave for 2 hours and on and on.  We were really confused so we asked a young woman who was surveying immigration and she told us we should only pay 30qz to get to flores and the the collectivo was only across a bridge around the corner, which was a 3 minute walk.  As soon as she talked to us, the men disappeared and you couldn't have found them if you wanted.  So, as long as you know what is the going rate, and you push through the border you are fine.

The collectivo was great - a man with his 2 kids operated it.  There was another couple traveling from the states and then the rest were locals, one couple with a newborn baby.  It was a great experience, and the brother and sister were 12 and 9, respectively.  They both spoke perfect English and talked with me the whole way.  The girl was very inquisitive and sweet and smart.
Sidways, but from our balcony in Flores.

I will keep you updated about Flores, and try to upload photos in the near future.

Thursday, December 13, 2012

No shirt... no shoes... no problem

Yesterday the three of us hiked around the perimeter of the island... this was interesting!  We found ourselves crossing over swampy areas where there are saltwater crocodiles, and ended up wading through some local muck - but it was awesome to go through the back pathways.  All together, walking at an island like pace, it took us about 2, 2.5 hours to circles the island.

Then it was time for the ritual 12 -1 break, all of the island quiets down at this time and the school children ride their bikes back home for lunch.

From about 1 to 7 I live in my swimsuit, and Tyler and I go swimming and snorkeling at the Split.  Jesse goes up there too, and sits in the shaded lookout.

Did I mention that we have not worn shoes for about 3 days?  Everything is sandy floors - restaurants, indoors, outdoors, businesses.  You just rake 2 times a day.  Sandy sandy sandy!

Jesse found out where to get fresh fish off the boat, and we bought some Red Snapper fresh caught and filleted for us $12 US for 6 hearty meals.

This morning I bought tacos from the taco lady cart and it was $2.50 for 5 tacos - I am soooo full!

From the front door of our hostel, sunrise.

Tomorrow we will be moving on to Guatemala, taking the water taxi and then the local buses to Flores.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Quick adjustment to the island life

So, we arrived to Belize City on Saturday and took a taxi cab to the water taxi.  The water taxi out to Caye Caulker was about 40 minutes and our ride coincided with the sun setting behind us.  It is warm and humid here, with a low of maybe 70 or 75 and a high of 80.  The cool breeze off the ocean is great.

We are staying at Yuma's House - a hostel - we have a kitchen, an ocean side sandy garden with about 8 hammocks to choose from and a private dock with 3 additional hammocks underneath a canopy.  The island is small with 2 North to South streets.  We run into people we have met all the time - small island.  Time kind of stops and you just 'be'.

I took a yoga class last night - on a rooftop terrace facing the setting sun.  It's yoga, Belize style - mellow, therapeutic and with the sunset.

Lobster is the loca flava.  For $8 (tail) - 15 (whole) US it is a bargain here!  I have grown to love the 1 Barrell local rum mixed with this juice called Lime Squash - basically really condensed lime juice with sugar and local rum, it's called Lovers Paradise.  Mmm! And almost anywhere on the island between 4 and 8 you get 2 of these drinks for $3.50US.

I have gone swimming everyday at the Split where a hurricane tore the island into North and South.  Here, the water is clear and ranges from 2 feet to 15.  It is definitely the place to be in the hot of the afternoon.

Tomorrow I plan on doing some snorkeling out at shark ray alley and the reef.


Below is our hostel, sidways, sorry.

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Packing the backpack...

A lot of people have been wondering why I haven't packed yet and what I am packing.  Well, now I am packing and here is what's going in my Gregory DEVA 60 backpack:




5 Dresses (I am just as active/etc in these than any pants, etc)
1 pair linen pants
1 pair shorts
1 skirt
5 tanks
1 mid length shirt
1 long sleeve light shawl
1 pair yoga pants
1 light rain jacket
1 swimsuit
1 pair socks (no shoes that need them)
First Aid Kit
Basic Toiletries
Sunscreen
Ultrathon Insect Repellent
Bar of soap
Flask
Anti-mallaria pills
Rough Guide Central America book
1 pair flip flops
1 pair Vibrams (toe shoes - good for hiking, water, etc)
1 light weight flat sheet
1 light weight small towel
1 plastic bag for carrying dirty/wet items



Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Are we nearing the midnight hour?

As I understand it to be, December 21 is a great alignment of the center of Earth, our Sun, and our Milky Way.  There is a polar shift underway, and the magnetism of the earth is decreasing.  (Lower magnetic areas show high likelihood to change).  Alongside these changes and alignments are huge increases in synchronicity and growth in consciousness.  How I see it is that the peak of the Ego ruling world = 2012 = midnight, and on December 22, 2012 we begin our path as a whole society back toward the divine, toward daybreak.  Communities will be every more important and releasing the self-serving ego will be of equal importance.  Blessings!